Piko Point Motor Repair

This Piko point motor's electrical terminal screws are seized, and the terminal block requires to be replaced, and as the motor is completely disassembled, other repairs are also possible, if required.  This motor internally is very similar to the LGB item, and the replacement terminal block is an LGB replacement item.

	The six screws identified are removed, and the top just pulls off.
The inside, as mentioned looks very similar to the LGB point motor, with the damaged terminal block to the right of the photo.
	The Piko motor has a rubber seal (the LGB item does not), and the driven rack is fitted in the seal, so these have been removed as a single item. Note there are two (one each side) retaining spacers, there positioning is important on re-assembly
The motor unit is now removed, the two side plates will almost certainly fall off, also note that the drive pinion has a small "stop" that is on the underside.
	On assembly the side plates slot into the drive with the long ends at the pinion end. You can just see the "stop" on the pinion, this limits the movement "back and forth", position is vital on assembly.
Carefully desolder the winding connections, I did a resistance test (2.3 ohm), this is to ensure that reconnected a similar value is achieved before re-assembly.
	With the winding de-soldered, I filed down the top of the lugs so the old terminal block came out.
The new block is inserted, and the windings ends soldered in position, at this stage I checked the resistance at the terminal block, and was almost identical, so I was content a good connection was made. I then removed the excess from the terminal block lugs.
	The motor assembly is dropped in to place (just like that.   Then the seal together with the rack.  Points to watch out for are: a) If the motor does not sit flat, do not force it, the two side plates and the pinion have to be in the correct position, with the stop against one side.  b) The two spacers mentioned earlier, with the seal and rack, ensure they are up against the seal, other wise the top will not fit correctly.  c) If the pinion "stop" one side, the arrow on the rack should be at the other side.

This then brings us back to the fist photo, drop the top on and tighten the screws.  Do not be tempted to "bench test" without the top on, the rack will jump out, and the pinion will not align.